Question Tower system power cuts out with a click sound ?

[Richard1234]

Hi,
I built a system based on extensive advice from Aeacus over a year ago, namely https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/new-build-questions.3836713/

full system:

MSI ACE mobo
AMD 7950X3D CPU
RTX 4060 GPU
Corsair DDR5 RAM
Enthoo Pro case
Prime TX-1600 PSU
Dark Rock Pro 5 cooler
Noctua A14 fans

everything has been fine till now, but a recurring problem has emerged.

I have been doing a lot of backups of mainly 2T magnetic drives, and also verifying the copies are correct, over several days.
some backups can take more than 12 hours. so the machine has been under heavier use than normal for many days.

as I am trying to migrate my storage from USB2 enclosed sata magnetic drives to USB3 drives, mostly magnetic but a few SSDs, eg 5T magnetic USB3 ones, and 4T SSDs, and some 2T and 1T SSDs.

whilst one of some 490gigabytes was verifying, I went for a walk, and returned to find the PC had powered down. the lights on the Corsair ram was on. But I couldnt wake up the machine. Eventually I tried to power it off with the power switch at the top of the the Enthoo and nothing happened. so I powered it off at the mains.

now what happens is sometimes it will boot like now, but at some point there is a click from the machine and the power goes, but the Corsair rainbow lights continue. Other times the power cuts out before it reaches the boot options. It is quite frustrating.

I tried powering off all the USB hubs, as I have three USB3 hubs with 10 ports each, ie 30 USB3 sockets via hubs and more than 20 are in use, but at any time I might just use maybe 4 of those. the others are connected up but are powered off. I have the Sabrent 10 hubs. Items are powered off at the mains switch if mains powered, or at the hub socket switch if powered by the hub. The idea being to minimise attaching and detaching as that wears out the contacts and the hub becomes junk.

and also detached the sata cables to 2 magnetic drives in the tower in case any of these was the cause of the problem. but the problem persists, I can power up sometimes like now, but at some point there is a click from inside the machine and the power goes, but the Corsair memory modules rainbow lights continue. And the power button at the top of the machine doesnt work to power off fully.

I cant determine where the click is coming from.

 

[Aeacus]

that review says the Seasonic is ATX3.0 up to 1000W, but not for higher power up to the 1600W
https://hwbusters.com/psus/seasonic-prime-titanium-tx1600-review/

If you look at the dates, review of TX-1600 was published in 2022, while TX-1600 ATX 3.0 was released in 2024. And the latest, TX-1600 ATX 3.1 was released Q1 2025.
Specs of the latest: https://seasonic.com/atx3-prime-tx/

No reviews of the TX-1600 ATX 3.1 as of yet.

There is even a special edition of TX-1600, named Noctua Edition,
specs: https://seasonic.com/product/prime-tx-1600-noctua-edition/

It is much quieter in operation than regular TX-1600.

Aris'es review: https://hwbusters.com/psus/seasonic-prime-noctua-tx-1600-atx-v3-1-psu-review/

So, if all what you need is quiet operation, TX-1600 Noctua Edition would be the best option for you.
At the time when i constructed your build, more than a year ago, that PSU wasn't released yet. It was released Q3 2024.

looks like the Corsair AX1600i outdoes the seasonic on many things, BUT the Seasonic is twice as quiet!

Well, Corsair AX1600i is made by Flextronics (one of the best PSU OEMs). In fact, AX1600i is the ONLY consumer model from Flextronics, which otherwise only produces server PSUs.
Moreover, AX1600i is one of the very few fully-digital PSUs, a true marvel of PSU's engineering. But AX1600i is now getting old, initially released in 2018.

Though, Flextronics will not be making any other consumer PSU as of now. So, the one PSU they did make, in collaboration with Corsair, is and most likely remains, as sole consumer PSU from Flextronics. Which is sad, considering how well made the Flextronics PSU is and what features it has.
It would be prime time where all PSUs should be fully-digital (with the features fully-digital PSU brings, like software monitoring and control, nigh-perfect efficiency) but alas, PSUs are still analog. There are some semi-digital PSUs but most PSUs are still "dumb" ones.

I have to be careful then to not buy the ATX3.0 one!

ATX 3.0 or 3.1 is actually better (modern) than old ATX 2.5.

This article (written by Aris) describes in-depth what ATX 3.0 brings over older ATX 2.5,
link: https://hwbusters.com/psus/intel-atx-v3-0-specification-explained-briefly/

Here is article (also written by Aris) that describes differences between ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1,
link: https://hwbusters.com/psus/should-i...3-0-will-be-fine-everything-you-need-to-know/

 

[Richard1234]

I have now read all 4 reviews, looks like the Corsair RM1000x is also good in its own way, apparently the fan only starts at about 400W, so for my usage where the power is maybe 188W it is totally silent.

The Seasonic is less than 6dB up to almost 700W, according to the cybenetics review if you search in the page for "NOISE GRAPH".

If you look at the dates, review of TX-1600 was published in 2022, while TX-1600 ATX 3.0 was released in 2024. And the latest, TX-1600 ATX 3.1 was released Q1 2025.
Specs of the latest: https://seasonic.com/atx3-prime-tx/

No reviews of the TX-1600 ATX 3.1 as of yet.

There is even a special edition of TX-1600, named Noctua Edition,
specs: https://seasonic.com/product/prime-tx-1600-noctua-edition/

It is much quieter in operation than regular TX-1600.

Aris'es review: https://hwbusters.com/psus/seasonic-prime-noctua-tx-1600-atx-v3-1-psu-review/

So, if all what you need is quiet operation, TX-1600 Noctua Edition would be the best option for you.
At the time when i constructed your build, more than a year ago, that PSU wasn't released yet. It was released Q3 2024.


Well, Corsair AX1600i is made by Flextronics (one of the best PSU OEMs). In fact, AX1600i is the ONLY consumer model from Flextronics, which otherwise only produces server PSUs.
Moreover, AX1600i is one of the very few fully-digital PSUs, a true marvel of PSU's engineering. But AX1600i is now getting old, initially released in 2018.

Though, Flextronics will not be making any other consumer PSU as of now. So, the one PSU they did make, in collaboration with Corsair, is and most likely remains, as sole consumer PSU from Flextronics. Which is sad, considering how well made the Flextronics PSU is and what features it has.

sometimes a firm will do something just once, which is particularly good, and they never do any more.

I find this with Lidl, where they will sell something really superb, and then never again!

It would be prime time where all PSUs should be fully-digital (with the features fully-digital PSU brings, like software monitoring and control, nigh-perfect efficiency) but alas, PSUs are still analog. There are some semi-digital PSUs but most PSUs are still "dumb" ones.

Spoiler: expand for off topic on analogue technology

analogue can have its own advantages,

with hifi, some top end systems just had volume control and balance, no bass and treble, no graphic equaliser, their argument was that perfection cannot be improved, so if the system is top level, bass + treble + graphic equaliser can only add distortion.

with electric guitars, where I taught myself just to a very basic level, I went to a store with a large basement of electric guitars and amps, and asked for a demo of the different equipment, basically amplifier and guitar. the guy took a high end guitar, and connected it to one amp, and played a bit of music, sounded great. then he connected it to another amp, and it was like listening to a rock legend, it was sublime, like the best guitar music I have ever heard, and this is in a shop! where it left the other one sounding like junk.

I asked the guy, "how come this one is so much better than the other one?",
and he said: this one is a valve amp, the other one is solid state ie transistors.

he said buskers prefer the solid state ones as they can be used with a few AA batteries, but the valve amp can only be used from the mains, and it needs time to warm up and is much more expensive. But the sound is like on another level. so dont underestimate the old fashioned analogue technology! I plan to buy a valve amp eventually, but too many other things to do before that!

analogue doesnt have any bias to specific frequencies, the response curve will be smooth, its only bias is that the curve is not a straight line and there will be trouble at the low end and the high end. human hearing isnt digital but is spectral, where there is a sensor for each frequency for maybe 15000 frequencies, whereas vision is kind of digital, where there are sensors for 3 frequencies red, green, blue, and other colours are interpolated eg yellow = red + green. thus analogue music is much nicer to listen to as it responds to all nearby frequencies identically where you get better frequency separation than digital. digital responds to say F, F/2, F/4, F/8, F/16 ... for some fixed frequency F, thus frequencies which are slightly different get interpolated which isnt as good. F, F/2, F/4, F/8, etc will be correctly done, but all other frequencies will be interpolated as a combination of F, F/2, F/4, F/8, F/16 so technically arent proper sine waves. Human hearing being spectral means there is a lot of overlap which is why hearing is such a rich experience, its like having 15000 primary colours for vision instead of 3. whereas 16 bit digital sound kind of has 16 primary frequencies, when our ears can do 15000!

cassette tape is only some 4mm wide, and is 2 sides of 2 tracks, ie only about 1mm per track, and CrO2 cassettes are quite impressive. think now what say 1cm of tape width per track would be like! and very easy technology to engineer. they never made this because of the problem of piracy.

Whatever frequency is used as the base frequency for digitising sound, it can never be aligned nicely for all 15000 sensors, but with analogue music technology it is. They dont sell analogue music equipment any more, so people dont know what it was like, its because it was so good that people became obsessed by it.

industry has gone for digital technology, partly because it is easier to engineer, as the engineering can be done as software, but analogue technology can be far more advanced, eg a mirror is analogue, and eg holograms. But it is very difficult to work as it requires analogue mathematics, ie calculus.

with say hard drives, magnetic drives are kind of semi analogue, and they are still cheaper and larger capacity than SSDs, eg you can get a 16TB magnetic drive for £181. SSDs are faster and quiet. But the thing is a magnetic drive is dumb technology, its just some material, whereas an SSD needs components for every binary digit!

ATX 3.0 or 3.1 is actually better (modern) than old ATX 2.5.

This article (written by Aris) describes in-depth what ATX 3.0 brings over older ATX 2.5,
link: https://hwbusters.com/psus/intel-atx-v3-0-specification-explained-briefly/

Here is article (also written by Aris) that describes differences between ATX 3.0 and ATX 3.1,
link: https://hwbusters.com/psus/should-i...3-0-will-be-fine-everything-you-need-to-know/

sounds like ATX3.0 might be preferable to ATX3.1!

 

[Aeacus]

I have now read all 4 reviews, looks like the Corsair RM1000x is also good in its own way, apparently the fan only starts at about 400W, so for my usage where the power is maybe 188W it is totally silent.

The Seasonic is less than 6dB up to almost 700W, according to the cybenetics review if you search in the page for "NOISE GRAPH".

Here's Cybenetics report of the TX-1600 Noctua Edition: https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/2521/

Noctua Edition remains silent up to ~1100W output.

Also, at ~200W load, Noctua Edition is 92-94% efficient, while RM1000x at 200W load is 88.65% efficient. Meaning that Corsair PSU, at same 200W load, consumes more power and also wastes more electricity as excess heat.
92-94% efficiency = 80+ Titanium
88% efficiency = 80+ Bronze
Quite a stark difference.

sounds like ATX3.0 might be preferable to ATX3.1!

Well, there are two differences between the two;
* ATX 3.1 provides +12V-2x6 connector (improved connector over old 12VHPWR connector)
* ATX 3.1 standard specifies minimum hold-up time to be 12ms (ATX 3.0 and ATX 2.x had it at 17ms)

Relaxed hold-up time is an issue, but to know for sure if ATX 3.1 PSU actually has the lower, ~12ms hold up time, rather than higher ~17ms hold-up time, you need to either read the review or Cybenetics report.

For example TX-1600 Noctua Edition has hold-up time 24.1ms, which is far greater than 17ms and double of required 12ms.
RM1000x hold-up time wasn't tested in the two reviews i linked. I even looked up 3rd review and hold-up time wasn't tested in there either.


Oh, i made an error when i stated RM1000x 2015 warranty period. It isn't 10 years, but instead 7 years (written so in all reviews).
I just assumed that 2015 version also has 10 year warranty, just like 2021 version has it. But i was wrong.

So, when you bought your RM1000x in 2018, it's 7 year warranty is either up or will end soon. So, be wary of your RM1000x giving up the ghost any time soon (because this, 7 years, is what Corsair thinks the PSU would last without issues). Now, RM1000x is good quality PSU and should last longer, but at least, it's something to think about.

Spoiler: A bit about analog vs digital

For analog vs digital, it needs to be looked case-by-case basis, rather than overall.

There are some products where the analog version is better than digital one.
E.g audiophiles swore by the vinyl records and vinyl players for proper audio, rather than the digitally made audio. Peripheral analog input (PS/2) is better due to no latency, compared to digital input (USB). Etc.

But then there are those where digital is better than analog.
One of them is video signal. Analog video signals (VGA, DVI-A) are limited by the resolution and refresh rate, whereby those can not produce e.g 4K 120Hz image. For displays, digital (DP, HDMI) is better due to higher bandwidth. Digital PSUs can achieve 99% efficiency, while analog PSUs peak at 96%. Etc.

 

[Richard1234]

Here's Cybenetics report of the TX-1600 Noctua Edition: https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/2521/

Noctua Edition remains silent up to ~1100W output.

Also, at ~200W load, Noctua Edition is 92-94% efficient, while RM1000x at 200W load is 88.65% efficient. Meaning that Corsair PSU, at same 200W load, consumes more power and also wastes more electricity as excess heat.
92-94% efficiency = 80+ Titanium
88% efficiency = 80+ Bronze
Quite a stark difference.

I guess that means indirect noise by causing the tower fans to start sooner

Well, there are two differences between the two;
* ATX 3.1 provides +12V-2x6 connector (improved connector over old 12VHPWR connector)
* ATX 3.1 standard specifies minimum hold-up time to be 12ms (ATX 3.0 and ATX 2.x had it at 17ms)

Relaxed hold-up time is an issue, but to know for sure if ATX 3.1 PSU actually has the lower, ~12ms hold up time, rather than higher ~17ms hold-up time, you need to either read the review or Cybenetics report.

it would be crazy if Seasonic reduced that just to conform to the standard!

what you want is max(ATX3.0, ATX3.1), ie on each specification whichever is the better of the 2, then they can say:

ATX3.0 AND ATX3.1 compatible, unless there is a conflict between the 2 standards.

For example TX-1600 Noctua Edition has hold-up time 24.1ms, which is far greater than 17ms and double of required 12ms.
RM1000x hold-up time wasn't tested in the two reviews i linked. I even looked up 3rd review and hold-up time wasn't tested in there either.


Oh, i made an error when i stated RM1000x 2015 warranty period. It isn't 10 years, but instead 7 years (written so in all reviews).
I just assumed that 2015 version also has 10 year warranty, just like 2021 version has it. But i was wrong.

So, when you bought your RM1000x in 2018, it's 7 year warranty is either up or will end soon. So, be wary of your RM1000x giving up the ghost any time soon (because this, 7 years, is what Corsair thinks the PSU would last without issues). Now, RM1000x is good quality PSU and should last longer, but at least, it's something to think about.

I havent used it too long, probably some months with my earlier PC, and now whilst the Seasonic is returned. I bought it when Maplins went bankrupt, as you had to buy then or never. I got it at a good price, I think it was something like £45, and then it was in storage till probably early 2024. thus hopefully it will last say 6 years without fault. once it gets a fault then its better to buy a new one.

Spoiler: A bit about analog vs digital

For analog vs digital, it needs to be looked case-by-case basis, rather than overall.

There are some products where the analog version is better than digital one.
E.g audiophiles swore by the vinyl records and vinyl players for proper audio, rather than the digitally made audio. Peripheral analog input (PS/2) is better due to no latency, compared to digital input (USB). Etc.

But then there are those where digital is better than analog.
One of them is video signal. Analog video signals (VGA, DVI-A) are limited by the resolution and refresh rate, whereby those can not produce e.g 4K 120Hz image. For displays, digital (DP, HDMI) is better due to higher bandwidth. Digital PSUs can achieve 99% efficiency, while analog PSUs peak at 96%. Etc.

Spoiler: A bit about analog vs digital

yes, the video is much better as digital. I think also because vision is kind of digital, a digital technology works better. the retina cells are kind of pixels, and they are either on or off, higher intensity causes more frequent nerve signals.

for audio, you need to buy old era equipment to decide for yourself, if you listen on high end equipment eg in a listening room, where these are arranged like a nice home lounge, the sound is sublime! they wouldnt arrange listening rooms if they werent! eg in this era those listening rooms have vanished, because the technology isnt good enough for a listening room!

with vinyl, some records are better made than others, the higher quality vinyl is thicker, where it is both flatter and also there is more leeway for the groove. The quality ones are heavier also. Cheap manufactures were very thin. Today's redone ones seem to be high quality.

the hifi equipment for the general public was generally rubbish, where CDs sounded better, but if you got top end equipment it was vastly better than CDs. Things like turntable decks are very difficult to engineer properly, so the cheap ones were rubbish.

basically average CD players are much better than the main record players, but the higher end turntables vastly better than CDs. I cannot listen to CDs for more than an hour as the sound aggravates my ears. but with analogue, I could listen for hours.

I got a german manufactured Dual CS505-mark 2 deluxe turntable, which was award winning, lower end of top end. Outright top end was seriously expensive. my deck had an independent suspension for the turntable and was indirect belt drive, whereas say my brother had a sony. with the Sony if you walked around the upstairs room, the deck would boom with resonance as you walked round the room, as the deck didnt have independent suspension. whereas the Dual wouldnt get that resonance, as the independent suspension was a shock absorber. so the german deck was much better engineered.

indirect belt drive is also better as it gives some leeway if there is any obstruction.

the Sony had very clear sound, but wasnt so good for bass. whereas the Dual was all round good. The arm of the Dual had a counterweight, which you rotated to get it perfectly balanced, then you applied a small bias on the gauge, to get optimal pressure. whereas a cheap deck doesnt have that level of perfection. The official diamond needle is by a danish firm called Ortofon who still make the needle.

the Dual also didnt use a strobe to get the speed accurate, instead it just used room light, because in those days the room light was 50Hz, so that was sufficient to get the speed accurate. today's lights dont work, but I kept some old era filament bulbs for tuning it!

I think the needle had an elliptical cross section, so you could orientate it 2 ways, the one way produces a "wetter" sound.

the loudspeakers I got were manufactured by a shop in house, large items 52cm x 26cm x 26cm, with bass and treble, and an air vent so the air can escape for bass! higher end speakers could have bass, treble and midrange also.

when I connect it all up, the sound is magic!

the cassette deck is by Teac, and does CrO2 and metal tape, and also Dolby B and Dolby C, where CrO2 + dolby C is as good as vinyl.

the cassette decks they sell today usually are just for iron oxide cassettes which are the lowest quality, and they dont do Dolby C.

metal tape was the highest quality, but was too expensive, usually more expensive than a vinyl album.

whenever I say about my system, people then say about Technics turntables. but in the hifi era, japanese components were generally only good for cassette decks. their turntables werent that good. the top turntables were either german or scandinavian.

it was generally regarded that indirect drive was better than direct drive, I think all the japanese things are direct drive. on the internet technics try to say direct drive is better, but it isnt. With hifi a basic blunder is confusing the specification with the actual experience.

if you visit the Dual site, you will see their turntables are still belt driven, the germans are the top analogue engineers in the world,

Dual turntable of today

the hifi afficionados of the analogue era would tell you without hesitation that belt drives are best.

my mum had a direct drive japanese vehicle and my dad had an indirect drive french one, and the french one was 10x better experience. the direct drive vehicle was very jumpy! whereas the french one totally smooth experience.

and it was just a matter of observation that the Sony direct drive had a major resonance problem. If you look at say cars, german cars vastly better than japanese.


Japanese items would always say how good their stuff is, but in a listening test they werent as good for turntables, loudspeakers, amps.

the best cassettes I found to be japanese, namely Sony. Didnt like the TDK ones. Philips ones were rubbish.

each cassette brand has a different sound, eg different Sony CrO2 tapes had different sounds. generally also best to get 60 minute, not 90 minute, because 90 minute is 50% longer, they use thinner tape which is more likely to get tangled!

british manufacture was good for amplifiers and loudspeakers, but not for turntables.

for hifi, the general idea was that your ears are the final judge, a product can use some technology and rave about this, but when you listen its a different story!

where with PSUs you can make conclusions on numerical data, it doesnt work like that for hifi!

the amount of things I listened to that had superb specifications but were rubbish sound!

 

[Aeacus]

it would be crazy if Seasonic reduced that just to conform to the standard!

Standard is at least 12/17ms. More is always better (preferred actually).

E.g my Seasonic PSU [SSR-650TD] hold-up time is a mythical 35.5ms.
Aris'es review of my PSU if interested: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-prime-titanium-650w-psu,4690.html
Back in 2016, my PSU was the best 650W PSU money could buy. So, there's that.

Cybenetics report too, if interested: https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/44/

My 2nd Seasonic PRIME unit [SSR-650TR], in missus'es PC, has 28.6ms hold-up time. Still far more than standard.
Cybenetics report of it too, if interested: https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/239/

Though, popular PSU that many do buy, due to it's cheap price, Corsair CX550m, fails to meet hold-up standard. Only having 11.1ms.
Cybenetics report: https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/1811/

This is due to the reason that many people care little, if any, about PSU's build quality. Instead, all they look is price and max output wattage, without considering if the PSU itself even meets the, very relaxed, ATX PSU standard or not. And more often than not, folks running those cheap PSUs come out of the woodwork once the PSU goes belly up and fries something else as well. Many good MoBos and GPUs have died due to the person being a cheapskate and they cheaped out on a PSU.

One of the latest example is this topic: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/blue-screen-event-41-bugcode-59.3878675/
2nd example too: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/pc-restarts.3876104/

I see people cheaping out on PSUs often in TH forums. But what annoys me most, is those blokes who can easily afford 500+ $/£/€ GPU and have no problem forking out that much money for a GPU (or CPU) but become very stingy when they need to fork out 150-200 $/£/€ for proper PSU.

Spoiler: A bit about analog vs digital

There are some things that i like the old analog/manual way, rather than the new digital/automatic.
One such thing is using ignition key to turn on the car's engine on/off. Rather than the start/stop button many modern cars have. Because that button is huge security risk. Thieves can copy the key fob signal, reproduce, open the car and start, because car thinks the right key is near it. But with physical key and ignition switch, the digital signal can't be copied because car won't turn on if there is no manual/physical turning of the ignition switch.

But i do like some digital/automatic features as well. E.g i like automatic transmission over manual transmission. While i know how to drive with both, automatic transmission is far more convenient, especially when driving in city. Manual transmission is more work and while it can be fun, i'm too old to burn the rubber of car tires.

Oh, another, so called analog/manual thing that i like, is gasoline/diesel powered cars, compared to "digital" fully electric cars. I just find way too many flaws with electric cars that i don't like.

Sound wise, i know very little about hi-fi and can't comment on that. But this much i can say, that i prefer listening digital audio. Especially since my favorite music gerne is Trance (Epic and Classic Trance to be precise). Even now, when typing this, i'm listening Epic Trance channel from DI.FM. And that, via my headset, which produces "digital" 7.1 surround sound.

All-in-all, i think best is when you have a choice between analog/manual or digital/automatic. So, you can choose the one that suits you the best. Not having a choice is a poor option, since you may not like what it offers and you may prefer the other instead.

 

[Richard1234]

Standard is at least 12/17ms. More is always better (preferred actually).

E.g my Seasonic PSU [SSR-650TD] hold-up time is a mythical 35.5ms.
Aris'es review of my PSU if interested: https://www.tomshardware.com/reviews/seasonic-prime-titanium-650w-psu,4690.html
Back in 2016, my PSU was the best 650W PSU money could buy. So, there's that.

Cybenetics report too, if interested: https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/44/

My 2nd Seasonic PRIME unit [SSR-650TR], in missus'es PC, has 28.6ms hold-up time. Still far more than standard.
Cybenetics report of it too, if interested: https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/239/

Though, popular PSU that many do buy, due to it's cheap price, Corsair CX550m, fails to meet hold-up standard. Only having 11.1ms.
Cybenetics report: https://www.cybenetics.com/evaluations/psus/1811/

This is due to the reason that many people care little, if any, about PSU's build quality. Instead, all they look is price and max output wattage, without considering if the PSU itself even meets the, very relaxed, ATX PSU standard or not. And more often than not, folks running those cheap PSUs come out of the woodwork once the PSU goes belly up and fries something else as well. Many good MoBos and GPUs have died due to the person being a cheapskate and they cheaped out on a PSU.

in my case, I tended to just buy from what was available at shops such as Maplins, as I thought all that mattered was the wattage being higher than the sum of the wattages of my equipment. so its a case of ignorance. I wasnt even aware that PSUs have fans.

I follow the german principle of total perfektion, where I max the quality of everything, unless the price is way too much, or there are conflicting phenomena, eg I dont want noise and heat, so I dont necessarily want top end if it as noisy as the engine room of a ship, or if the room gets too hot.

by doing this, if I upgrade one component, the other components can probably handle it. whereas if I buy cheapest possible, literally everything else then has to be upgraded, or you get mystery crashes from insufficient total power.

now when I got the electric guitar, I got cheapest possible guitar, which cost something like £60, and got a Roland Cube Street amp, which is a standard busker amp. Here the rationale was I knew nothing at all about electric guitars, so I want to buy cheapest possible to then learn from direct experience what to go for. From doing that, eventually I will buy a quality guitar for maybe £600, and a valve amp. It was a good decision to start cheap, because I learnt some subtleties, where had I bought expensive it would have bought the wrong expensive guitar!

One of the latest example is this topic: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/blue-screen-event-41-bugcode-59.3878675/

2nd example too: https://forums.tomshardware.com/threads/pc-restarts.3876104/

I see people cheaping out on PSUs often in TH forums. But what annoys me most, is those blokes who can easily afford 500+ $/£/€ GPU and have no problem forking out that much money for a GPU (or CPU) but become very stingy when they need to fork out 150-200 $/£/€ for proper PSU.

in Britain, people often will pay the absolute minimum they can get away with. it is maybe a hangover from the 1800s, when people had no money and no belongings, where the attitudes carry on.

Spoiler: A bit about analog vs digital

There are some things that i like the old analog/manual way, rather than the new digital/automatic.
One such thing is using ignition key to turn on the car's engine on/off. Rather than the start/stop button many modern cars have. Because that button is huge security risk. Thieves can copy the key fob signal, reproduce, open the car and start, because car thinks the right key is near it. But with physical key and ignition switch, the digital signal can't be copied because car won't turn on if there is no manual/physical turning of the ignition switch.

Spoiler: A bit about analog vs digital

yes, it sounds like a flawed system. I generally like to do things old school, its because I grew up in the 1970s and 1980s, where I only saw calculators and digital watches for the first time when I was 11.

But i do like some digital/automatic features as well. E.g i like automatic transmission over manual transmission. While i know how to drive with both, automatic transmission is far more convenient, especially when driving in city. Manual transmission is more work and while it can be fun, i'm too old to burn the rubber of car tires.

I got my first car 2016, so I only know the automatic transmission. what I like is the old school brake and steering wheel and gears, but with automatic transmission where it simulates the old era, but without the effort.

I really dont like press button brakes, also I dont like eco cut out. if I get in a traffic jam, I just switch the engine off, I dont need a computer to make the decision for me!

I like the manual gears as I find them therapeutic, I hope I never have to use a driverless car.

also I always switch off autocorrect with computers and smartphones. I like to know how to spell words, I know the few words that I cannot spell and sometimes will mis-spell them, but I know I might have made an error.

Oh, another, so called analog/manual thing that i like, is gasoline/diesel powered cars, compared to "digital" fully electric cars. I just find way too many flaws with electric cars that i don't like.

my current car is diesel, what I like is I can refuel for more than 600 miles in a few minutes!

and it is quite cheap, my last refuelling for mainly city driving, ie mostly 40mph, but also 30mph and 20mph, was 16.5 pence per mile.

when I eventually upgrade, I may get a hybrid car, that way I can continue using fuel, but also conform to the clean air zones. petrol cars currently do conform.

Sound wise, i know very little about hi-fi and can't comment on that. But this much i can say, that i prefer listening digital audio. Especially since my favorite music gerne is Trance (Epic and Classic Trance to be precise). Even now, when typing this, i'm listening Epic Trance channel from DI.FM. And that, via my headset, which produces "digital" 7.1 surround sound.

All-in-all, i think best is when you have a choice between analog/manual or digital/automatic. So, you can choose the one that suits you the best. Not having a choice is a poor option, since you may not like what it offers and you may prefer the other instead.

the thing is trance music is created digitally, so it is kind of tautological that it is best listened to on a digital system.

the music you are into is what I call mood or theme music, where it creates a mood or theme and can be quite lengthy as it creates an ambience. The earliest theme music I heard was oxygene by Jean Michelle Jarre, which I first heard around 1978, the URL says its from 1976. I dont know what you think of that, this of course is majorly off topic!

there is a saying "you cant miss what you dont know", so if you havent experienced quality pre electronic music on a quality analogue system, you wont be aware what you are missing.

electronic music on analogue systems is good! eg in the 1980s, there was all kinds of digital music on vinyl, eg OMD did some really interesting songs, and you have songs such as Vienna by Ultravox, which has a lot of synth. the synthesizer music began appearing everywhere around 1980. Although Giorgio Moroder was dabbling with it even in 1975 eg the Donna summer hits, such as this one. in the 1970s the music generally was old school, where they used imagination to create interesting effects. A japanese guy called Tomita did a very interesting rendition of Debussy called snowflakes are dancing

if you wanted to try that, for a turntable you cant go wrong with a Dual, you'd have to research what they have, but the sound of my 1985 Dual is superb. You also need an analogue amplifier, probably get a second hand one, and old era loudspeakers.

here is a brochure by Dual from around 1985 on the predecessor of the one I have, namely the Dual CS 505 mark 1

the engineering is very extensive, eg where the stylus applies very subtle pressure on the groove so it is not overpressed.

so its a bit like the high end PSUs, where they optimise everything.

the belt drive means the motor is separated from the disk, so you dont get vibrations transmitting through, and also it has a bit of slack. There is a gap between the central plinth and the outer frame, where it has its own suspension which thus aborbs shocks eg from people walking around in a room with floorboards.

from Google ": Direct drive tables pack a punch with higher torque, while belt drives are more the slow and steady wins the race type. Noise & Vibration: Direct drives have made leaps and bounds in reducing motor noise, but belt drives with their rubber belts have that natural edge in reducing vibrations and noise."

if you have heard both in action, you wont go near a direct drive turntable with a bargepole!

 

[Aeacus]

Back to the topic.

So, now, your PC is working fine with RM1000x?
Also, as you said, you're currently taking a break, before buying 1000W UPS.

If there are any more questions in regards of your PC (or UPS), ask away. Until then, topic can be suspended.
Oh, we can do casual chat within PMs.

 

[Richard1234]

Back to the topic.

So, now, your PC is working fine with RM1000x?
Also, as you said, you're currently taking a break, before buying 1000W UPS.

If there are any more questions in regards of your PC (or UPS), ask away. Until then, topic can be suspended.
Oh, we can do casual chat within PMs.

yes, and I have messaged cyberpower as to which of their UPSes are silent, no reply yet, I'll post here if they reply. I suggested also about a thermostat controlled fan and to put decibels at 1m ratings.

I also messaged Eaton as to whether those UPSes are pure sine wave, also no reply yet. I suggested to them also to put pure sine wave and decibels in their filter.

the UPS has been received by the seller, no refund yet, and I havent heard anything further from Seasonic via the other seller as regards the warranty claim, just that they have forwarded the PSU to Seasonic.

I got the ESD bag samples, and its much better to have those to make a decision, I opted for 2 specific sizes. Main problem is the lengths rather than the widths. their largest size is ginormous, I think 24" x 30" where you could maybe fit 2 mobos!

the USB silicon covers also arrived today.

one thing which hasnt arrived yet is the UPS to UK power cables.